Although it's not my first time visiting Kanagawa, it is my first visit to Hakone. It feels great to be back in this city after my visit in 2019. Since I've previously blogged about Yokohama, Kamakura, Fujisawa, Chigasaki, Miura, and Kawasaki, I will focus on things to do in Hakone. Enjoy reading and feel free to comment if you have any questions.
About Hakone
Hakone (箱根) is part of the Fuji-Hakone-Izu National Park, less than one hundred kilometres from Tokyo. Famous for its hot springs, natural beauty, and views of nearby Mount Fuji across Lake Ashinoko, Hakone is a popular destination for both Japanese and international tourists seeking a break from Tokyo.
The mountainous town of Hakone is about an hour and a half by train from Tokyo, making it a popular day trip or weekend getaway from the capital. It has a long and illustrious tradition as a hot spring town—its name even appears in Edo-era (1603-1868) rankings of Japan's best onsen.
How to access Hakone from Tokyo
From Tokyo Station or Shinagawa Station, you can take the Tokaido Shinkansen and reach Odawara Station in approximately 35 minutes. From there, it's a short 15-minute train ride to Hakone Yumoto at the base of the Hakone mountains.
Attractions
Hakone Shrine
The Hakone Shrine (箱根神社) is a Japanese Shinto shrine located on the shores of Lake Ashi in the town of Hakone, Ashigarashimo District, Kanagawa Prefecture. It is also known as Hakone Gongen.
Visitors to Hakone Shrine pray for a happy marriage, wealth, safety while travelling, and luck in competitions. The shrine's rise to fame was partly due to many military commanders and samurai paying their respects there.
We queued for around 20 minutes to take a few shots on a sunny day. I guess we were lucky, as my friends told me they had to queue for about an hour, and sometimes the photos don't turn out well on gloomy days.
Hakone Shrine is a 5-10 minute walk from the Moto-Hakone boat pier, which is a 35-minute ride on the Hakone Tozan Bus from Hakone-Yumoto Station by bus line H (1,080 yen, 4-5 buses per hour, covered by the Hakone Free Pass).
Details
Location : 80-1 Motohakone, Hakone, Ashigarashimo District, Kanagawa 250-0522, Japan.
Business hours : Daily (8.15am - 5.00pm)
Admission fees : Free
Owakudani Valley
Owakudani (大涌谷) is an area around a crater formed during the last eruption of Mount Hakone some 3,000 years ago. Today, it is an active volcanic zone where you can experience sulfurous fumes, hot springs, and hot rivers. Additionally, Owakudani offers good views of Mount Fuji on clear days.
The area's distinctive sulfur smell led to its old name, Jigokudani (Hell Valley). One local speciality is "black eggs," whose shells turn black due to a chemical reaction with geothermal energy and volcanic gas. Eating one is said to prolong one's life by seven years.
The observation platform offers breathtaking views of Owakudani, Hakone’s most famous tourist spot. The desolate mountainside, covered by smoke, creates a distinct scene fitting the area's former name, Hell Valley. The Hakone Ropeway rises above Owakudani, offering many scenic views.
Travelling from Sounzan to Owakudani, passengers can see the valley below, and on the route to Togendai, they can enjoy views of Mt. Fuji and Lake Ashi.
Details
Location : 1251 Sengokuhara, Hakone, Ashigarashimo District, Kanagawa 250-0631, Japan.
Business hours : Daily (9.00am - 4.45pm)
Admission fees : 2,500 yen per pax
How to access : Owakudani is accessible from Hakone-Yumoto Station via train, cable car, and ropeway. Take the Hakone Tozan Railway from Hakone-Yumoto Station to Gora Station, then transfer to the Hakone Cable Car to Sounzan Station (about 50 minutes). Take the Hakone Ropeway to Owakudani Station (10 minutes).
Narukawa Art Museum
The Narukawa Museum of Art (成川美術館, Narukawa Bijutsukan) is a contemporary art museum dedicated to nihonga, a style of painting that adheres to traditional Japanese artistic conventions, techniques, tools, and materials. Originally, the term nihonga was used to distinguish Japanese-style paintings from Western-style paintings, but artists have since expanded its scope to include Western techniques.
In addition to its art collection, the museum features an impressive panorama lounge and café with large windows overlooking Lake Ashinoko. On a clear day, it offers one of the best views of Mount Fuji, the lake, and the floating torii gate of Hakone Shrine.
We visited this museum twice in one week because, to be honest, there isn't much to do in Hakone, haha. This place quickly became one of my favourites— I really enjoyed the spectacular views and the impressive art pieces.
Details
Location : 570 Motohakone, Hakone, Ashigarashimo District, Kanagawa 250-0522, Japan.
Business hours : Daily (9.00am - 5.00pm)
Admission fees : 1,300 yen per pax
How to access : The Narukawa Art Museum is just across the street from the Moto-Hakone sightseeing boat pier on the south shore of Lake Ashinoko.
Odawara Castle
Odawara Castle (小田原城, Odawarajō), the symbol of Odawara, was originally built in the mid-15th century. It soon fell into the hands of the Hojo Clan, one of the most powerful clans during the Warring States Era, who used it as a base to control the region around modern-day Tokyo. In 1590, Toyotomi Hideyoshi attacked the castle, and with the defeat of the Hojo Clan, reunited Japan.
Nearby, you can experience samurai culture at facilities such as the Tokiwagi Gate Samurai Hall, where armour and katanas are on display, and you can even try on armour yourself! The castle also has a smartphone application with multilingual support, making it easy for visitors to sightsee. Events such as the Plum Festival and Cherry Blossom Festival are held during each season, making this a staple sightseeing spot that can be enjoyed year-round.
Details
Location : Jonai, Odawara, Kanagawa 250-0014, Japan.
Business hours : Daily (9.30am - 6.00pm)
Admission fees : 510 yen (Castle Keep) ; 310 yen (Ninja Museum) ; 200 yen (Samural Museum) ; 610 yen (All)
How to access :
- It's a 10-minute walk from the JR, Odakyu, Hakone Tozan Railway, or Izuhakone Railway lines at Odawara Station (OH47).
- Take the Hakone Tozan Railway at Hakone-Yumoto Station (OH51) bound for Odawara Station, exit at Odawara Station (OH47) (15 minutes), then walk for 10 minutes.
Miyukinohama Beach
Miyukinohama Beach (御幸之浜) is near Odawara Castle, just a 15-minute walk away. This beach is not sandy but is mostly composed of smooth river stones and pebbles, as shown in the photos. The beach is rocky, with coarse grains and black sand, and the sea breeze is quite strong.
The Odawara City Tourist Guide describes it as a "tunnel leading to the sea," and as you pass through the tunnel under the elevated Nishisho Bypass, Miyukinohama unfolds before you. The sound of the waves is soothing. I walked there from Odawara Station.
This tunnel shot really looks like a scene straight out of a J-drama movie, haha.
Don't forget to stop by Ryugudo for some gelato or kakigori. It's just a short walk from the tunnel and the perfect treat, especially on a hot summer day.
Details
Location : 4 Chome-12-1 Honcho, Odawara, Kanagawa 250-0012, Japan.
Food
Gin No Ho
Gin No Ho (ごはんと板前料理 銀の穂), located in Hakone Town, Ashigarashimo County, Kanagawa Prefecture, offers patrons the chance to enjoy a meal while taking in the beautiful pampas grass tableland of Sengokuhara. The restaurant is renowned for its wappa-meshi and kama-meshi, seafood-topped rice dishes made with an abundance of local ingredients, including vegetables harvested from the restaurant’s farm, Fujisanroku pork, Odawara horse mackerel, and Hime no Mizu yuba tofu skin.
My husband ordered the Unagi Kamameshi (2,860 yen), while I opted for the Gomoku Kamameshi (1,860 yen). Both meals came as a set with chawanmushi, a clear soup, a side dish, and tea. We also ordered fried chicken as an appetizer.
Details
Location : 817-397 Sengokuhara, Hakone, Ashigarashimo District, Kanagawa 250-0631, Japan.
Business hours : Thu - Tue (11.00am - 2.30pm | 5.00pm - 8.30pm) ; Closed on Wed
Hatsuhana Soba Honte
Founded in 1934, Hatsuhana Soba Honten (はつ花そば本店) has been a staple in the heart of Hakone, Hakone Yumoto, for over 80 years. When it comes to soba restaurants in Hakone Yumoto, its name is mentioned first and foremost. To make their distinctive noodles, they use buckwheat flour, local eggs, and a sticky yam called Jinenjo. The noodles are crafted without wheat flour or water. Jinenjo contains abundant minerals and vitamins and is said to be good for health and beauty. This yam is even stickier than other varieties, and its distinctive flavour pairs perfectly with buckwheat. From the restaurant, you can see the Hayakawa River and enjoy your meal while listening to the sound of the stream.
When we stepped into the restaurant and saw the menu displaying prices from the old days, we knew this place had a long history. We were eager to try their soba, especially since there was always a long queue whenever we passed by.
Soba is usually made with buckwheat flour, wheat flour, and water. However, at Hatsuhana, only buckwheat flour and Jinenjo yam are used. The former owner-chef devised this recipe when he couldn't obtain wheat flour during the war. The spirit of creating delicious and healthy soba has been handed down ever since. They use different kinds of Japanese-grown buckwheat flour depending on the season and only organic Jinenjo.
Details
Location : 635-635 Yumoto, Hakone, Ashigarashimo District, Kanagawa 250-0311, Japan.
Business hours : Thu - Tue (10.00am - 7.00pm)
Irorisaryo Hachiri
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| ( Photo source : Pinterest ) |
Hakone Yuryo is a traditional onsen bath surrounded by forest, featuring indoor and outdoor pools, a garden, and a restaurant. Since I'm pregnant, I couldn't join the onsen bath, so our visit was mainly to have dinner at the restaurant.
Irorisaryo Hachiri offers hearth-cooked irori cuisine, with food carefully cooked over a charcoal fire on a grill or skewers. In traditional Japanese houses, a part of the floor was used to create a sunken hearth where coal and wood were packed to make a fire. At Hachiri, they have recreated this on a tabletop for customers to enjoy.
Since we both love onions, we decided to order a grilled onion. It was our first time grilling an onion, and to our surprise, it tasted amazing — so tender and sweet.
It was wonderful to enjoy a meal amidst the rustic ambience. I highly recommend trying authentic irori (hearth-cooked) cuisine for yourself.
Details
Location : 4 Tonosawa, Hakone, Ashigarashimo District, Kanagawa 250-0315, Japan.
Business hours : Weekdays (11.30am - 8.00pm) ; Weekends (11.30am - 9.00pm)
Cocoro
At Cocoro, you can savour steaming hot, one-of-a-kind curry rice served in a heat-proof dish. The restaurant takes pride in its roux, cooked for over 5 hours, and its original blend of 17 different spices! This curry contains no chemical seasonings, highlighting the superb taste of natural ingredients.
Hubby ordered Cocoro Special (2,200 yen) while I ordered the Root vegetables, seasonal vegetables and boiled egg (1,600 yen). Instead of white rice, the restaurant uses shikoku mai (black rice), which is richer in nutrients. Onsen tamago (hot spring eggs), boiled using water from the Hakone-Yumoto onsen, are provided on the side. The most popular item on the menu is the Cocoro special, which features an onsen tamago on top of curry made with thoroughly boiled pork cubes and cutlets. This dish is highly popular with customers.
Details
Location : 475-8 Yumoto, Hakone, Ashigarashimo District, Kanagawa 250-0311, Japan.
Business hours : Wed - Sun (11.00am - 2.30pm | 5.00pm - 8.15pm) ; Tue (11.00am - 2.30pm | 5.00pm - 7.30pm) ; Closed on Mon
Suzuka
Suzuka (铃鹿) is a traditional Japanese izakaya that offers a wide variety of options, including sashimi, grilled dishes, fish, and meat dishes. You can also enjoy a wide selection of Japanese sake.
The izakaya is quite small (as usual), with only three staff members. The serving time is longer than usual, so don't forget to order some cold appetizers while you wait, or you'll end up very hungry.
We ordered the cold tofu salad, and it was so refreshing! Surprisingly, even though we're not typically salad fans, we loved this dish. I also tried the boiled tofu—simple in appearance but with a strong aroma that I really enjoyed. The vegetable tempura, fried chicken, and grilled pork were all good, but my favourite was definitely the yakisoba.
The service is excellent, and the cosy atmosphere is a point of pride. I highly recommend adding Suzuka to your list of recommended izakayas and making it a memorable part of your trip to Hakone.
Details
Location : 703-12 Yumoto, Hakone, Ashigarashimo District, Kanagawa 250-0311, Japan.
Business hours : Thu - Tue (5.00pm - 11.00pm) ; Closed on Wed
808 Monsmare
Located in Hakone Yumoto, where the food cultures of the mountains and seafood cultures intersect, 808 Monsmare has been serving Italian cuisine, primarily firewood dishes, since March 2018. (Certified in the 2020 Travelers' Choice Awards as the No. 1 Overall Restaurant in the Hakone Town Area.) Enjoy firewood dishes that enhance the flavour of the ingredients by slowly grilling local produce from Odawara and Hakone, as well as carefully selected ingredients from around the world, including Italy, over a wood fire.
Initially, we planned to order two pizzas to share. However, noticing that each customer ordered one pizza for themselves, we decided to do the same. Surprisingly, we managed to finish our own pizzas!
They offer a wide variety of natural wines, carefully selected by the owner, who is a certified sommelier by the Japan Sommelier Association. Additionally, their baristas hold JBA barista licenses, so you can enjoy a superb espresso made by an expert.
Details
Location : 698-10 Yumoto, Hakone, Ashigarashimo District, Kanagawa 250-0311, Japan.
Business hours : Thu - Sat (11.00am - 2.30pm | 5.00pm - 9.00pm) ; Sun - Mon (11.00am - 2.30pm | 5.00pm - 8.30pm) ; Closed on Tue - Wed
Haikara Chinese Nisshintei
Haikara Chinese Nisshintei (ハイカラ中華 日清亭) is a relaxed, warm restaurant offering house-made noodles and dumplings, along with happy-hour specials.
It's always nice to enjoy some Chinese comfort food while overseas, and we were lucky to find this place close to our accommodation.
Details
Location : 703 Yumoto, Hakone, Ashigarashimo District, Kanagawa 250-0311, Japan.
Business hours : Wed - Mon (11.00am - 3.00pm | 5.00pm - 8.00pm) ; Closed on Tue
Odawara Oden Main Store
Odawara Oden (小田原おでん本店) is a renowned Japanese restaurant specializing in Odawara oden, a hot pot dish simmered with various ingredients in dashi broth. The restaurant is often featured in the media for offering over 40 kinds of oden ingredients. You can choose from unique options like minced fish mixed with black squid ink and tube-shaped fish paste cake mixed with Aji (horse mackerel) paste, as well as classic items such as radish, egg, and konnyaku (a jelly-like food made from a type of potato). Odawara Oden also offers a wide range of drinks, including local craft beer and sake. Enjoy your drinks alongside delicious oden!
The restaurant serves delightful dishes and provides a warm and calming atmosphere created by wood. The glassed-in space, called the “Sutera room,” is trendy among guests, allowing you to watch the stars over dinner.
The Odawara Oden Omakase 5 Shina (1,800 yen) is a set menu that includes five kinds of oden that the chef has selected. Alternatively, you can choose another set, like we did, where you select the five types of oden you prefer. While oden is typically eaten with Karashi (hot Japanese mustard), Odawara oden is served with plum miso (soybean paste mixed with a local speciality plum) and wasabi (Japanese horseradish). This was our first time visiting an authentic oden shop, and we loved it! We usually just take oden to go, so dining in a restaurant like this was a whole new experience for us!
Details
Location : 3 Chome-11-30 Hamacho, Odawara, Kanagawa 250-0004, Japan.
Business hours : Tue - Sun (11.30am - 2.30pm | 4.00pm - 9.00pm) ; Closed on Mon
How to access : 14 minutes walk from the West exit of JR Tokaido Main Line Odawara Station
Tips for Visiting Hakone
- Most restaurants (about 95%) only accept cash for payment. Unlike big cities such as Tokyo or Osaka, they don't usually accept credit cards or QR payments. Therefore, always bring cash before entering the restaurant. If you don't have enough cash, no worries; you can withdraw money from convenience stores like 7-Eleven or Family Mart, as we did. Please note that different convenience stores may have different rates for withdrawals.
- Download the Google Translate app. Most locals here don't understand or speak English. Use the app to communicate with them or to translate the menu into English, so you know what to order.
- Rent a car. If you're planning to visit Hakone for a few days, it is advisable to rent a car. Transportation here is not as convenient as in the city, and many hidden places are not accessible by train.
That's all for our Hakone itinerary. Don't forget to check out the video below. I know it was a bit lengthy, but trust me, I tried to share all the details with you. I'll try to blog about Shizuoka soon. I'm still unsure if I should blog about my fifth visit to Tokyo since it wasn't anything special, lol. See you next time. Sayonara~
Travel Vlog
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#ShiniInHakone
For more photos, search the hashtag #ShiniInHakone on Instagram. There, you can also find additional details about my personal experiences during the trip.
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